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waterwax

OH, US
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Re: Poll: The Next FWW Tool Test

There are many good suggestions posted. One item of curiosity is whether the combination jointers/planer tools perform as well as those purchased separately. However, there are manyother tools already rated in FWW and elsewhere. I do think the most important aspect are indeed jigs and enhancements made with tools. Example: how to make a jig for a 30 degree or 45 degree incline on a Hollow mortise chisel. I saw a New Yankee Workshop episode where Norm did such a thing and it was only a 2 second pan on the camera so it must be a guarded secret for the pros. It doesn't stop there such as rather than buying a drill press table but make one even for the shorty 12 inch models. Techniques with these adjunct additions I think is a must such as making a small gooseneck curve not for the hefty and big Highboy's with a shaper but one done on a router table. Some of us like to make smaller versions or spin offs like a small mantle clock or make one to hang on the wall. One unique idea is making an index jig for a router table where a cylindrical piece of wood could easily be routed for flutes and other embellishments instead of some of us who have lathes but no index plate or cumbersome router jig mounted on the lathe. I know these ideas especially the latter someone has made on their own. Raised panels and especially finishing topics below I believe have been over done. There are a plethora of articles on finishing not to mention books and opinions abound as to period finishes, using a small linseed oil then shellac etc. Coloring of wood well over done with 2 step processes, one step, shellac, chemicals, natural plants, mordants, dyes, stains, transtints etc. One major overlook is gilding with gold leaf being the exception. There are new technologies such as patinizing brass and metals as well as using ingredients to patinize wood where a metal base is painted on and various chemicals or formulas premade are used to achieve various outcomes. Brass, silver and other inlays I believe have been covered. These are just my thoughts and opinions that may be interesting to others so if anyone agrees with one or more of my topics by all means include them. What's great about this forum is that new ideas abound and the editors ought to consider our suggestions because honestly some issues are lean in content and plain boring with the exception of advetisements.

Re: Spalt Your Own Lumber: Introduction

Sorry, I forgot to say that I had a lot of cherry burl and other woods in the basement for turning. My basement flooded because the sump pump became disconnected. One or two inches was enough to spalt some cherry burl and others since the humidity was so intense and of course it was dark. As to spores, I had other spalted blocks like buckeye burl. I was letting the wood air dry and then the flood. Most were still waxed but in 2 years I was amazed and upset same as the day of the flood. Nevertheless this is not recommended. But it can happen to you too. Maybe I juggled an idea for DIY. I hope so. Just wish to help anyway I can. I thinkthe farmer rapport is best earlier posted. You might find 50 acres plenty and not to be overlooked. Again good luck.

Re: Spalt Your Own Lumber: Introduction

I have to give Sara Kudo's for her work! Now to share with fellow saw dust makers, I lived on a farm some time ago andwe had quite a woods canopy where little light came throughand there was a lively creek. So every now and thenafter as thunderstorm, new felled trees were marked. Many types of mushrooms grew on already too spalted soft punky woods. In fact there were many patches of mushrooms dotted here and there. We had maple, Oak, Locust, Hackberry, and most anything one could wonder with 116 acres. One maple in particular was over 200 years old that got nailed by lightning and within time it spalted. The ground was rich (never tilled--how could it be?) there were trees of differing sizes every 2-3 feet making night crawling and getting back home a navigation nightmare. There were plentiful leaves and they were deep making the ground moist. What I am trying to convey is that if you are an avid hunter ask to hunt on a farmer's land and return often. Give them money, jelly, blueberries as tokens for their time. Flag the trees somehow with a map you draw. Don't put a flag on a desireable tree. Start up a conversation and then talk about your hobby of hunting and woodworking. Then eventually ask the farmer if you could get some old decayed wood that you can use and you would like to haul it out even by hand and rope or a long winch and even prepare toask to pay for it. Chances are if you are on his good side with a good rapport you get it free. Our family did not have use for such huge supply of spalted wood. We used locust for fence posts and one guy helped us out for a few hours.--Priceless. The DIY way of spalting is unpredictable and complicated. But Sara as a scientist showed us a method with her work and very generous to share. We had native elderberries people picked for wine after we were done, same with ginseng, blackberries, walnuts, and more. We had cattle so I buried wood inmanure for awhile and then washed it off. Years later I saw Adventures in Woodworking and found George Frank did the same. We had bee hives so we had plenty of Bee's Wax. We didn't know any woodowrker(s) but candle makers picked it up for free. Just to let you know there is rich land on farms with much to offer in abundance and to earn their trust and friendship will pay off in many dividends. We had bumper crops and bartered whether fresh or canned. One thing we didn't take a liking too was people trespassing on our land. If they were hunters we chased them off due to safety since I hunted. I didn't like some idiot shooting at me and I retaliated in kind being a marksman getting closer to him with my bullets than his bullets shot at me. Always wear a bright orange vest and ask whatever your real purpose is and strike a good accord. You just might make some real decent friends and get some venison too! We sold the farm and ever since I regretted my father's decision. Sorry for the longevity of my post. Good Luck!

Re: Future Period Furniture Articles

Barely mentioned is Duncan Phyfe furniture and in particular a Duncan Phyfe Lyre Back Chair. I don't think he gets the credit he deserves for the unique style all his own.

Rounding second choice would be a Duncan Phyfe Pembroke Table to relieve the hands from all the detailedcarving of my first mention.

Honorable mention would be a Chippendale Mantle Clock. Just take a look into Wallace Nutting's "Furniture Treasury" you will find a perspective photograph with no dimensions but alas a good educated guess if a sample can't be found in a museum for the size. I would guess it at no greater than 5 inches deep and 22 inches high with plenty of challenge and reward afterward. But if not done, I'll take a stab at it since I've many concept drawings.

As to period furniture nothing beats Chippendale. The problem is the same old boring Highboys, Lowboys, card, and side tables done ad nauseum without a thought to tackle a more unique different piece of furniture. I can't think of anything to perk period furniture makers than the suggested Mantel clock. The Taft Museum in Cincinnati has probably the most extensive collection of Duncan Phyfe furniture to keep making saw dust for years to come with a deep appreciation for an often overlooked master cabinetmaker.

Don't get me wrong as many have good ideas. I have a tendancy to think "outside the conventional box."

Thanks!